More resources below (page 1)

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Continued from ypsilon22

Hydraulic fluid needed: according to 4CarData
For a Dualogic Fiat Panda Second generation (169), here's what you need:


Component Type Name Classification. Qty. Validity
HYDRAULIC ACTUATOR UNIT Silicon sealant Loctite 510 - - 1.2 8v

Note that the Liqui Moly Top Tec ATF 1200 I bought is colour-coded in orange, which is a very similar colour to
PARAFLU UP antifreeze. In case of a leak, you'll have to troubleshoot if it's coolant or selespeed leak.

Finally, the most important thing: motor brushes.

Of course it's impossible to find the original brushes, so here's how to search:

1. You'll need brushes with copper, like the ones used in starter motors
2. You'll need brushes with a wire shunt thick enough to support all these Amps
3. If you need a reference: GEBE USX 73-85

Original FIAT references:

Motor with pump: 71752637
High-pressure pipe: 71737617

This car has a decent ride height, so you just need to lift the car 4.5cm on the fusebox side and
2.5cm on the pulley side.

Useful info:
FIAT Forum - Dualogic troubleshooting Guide - GUIDE – Replacing Selespeed pump motor brushes
reddit - What is the little off white piece? Electric motor for a hydraulic pump on a BMW. - Magneti Marelli Selespeed CFC328 (DUALOGIC): Italian robot

Now, regarding the Selespeed Oil level.
As per service manual (see PDFs below) you fill up to MAX level but
with the car "cold and dark". Meaning that when in operating condition,
a considerable amount of oil is inside the system (accumulator, ...).
Hence, it's perfectly normal for the oil level to be well below MAX
level when pressurized. The level will get back up to MAX level when
car gets "cold and dark" again. Also note that it might take days for
the pressure to completely drop to 0 bar.

I call "cold and dark" what the manual calls "The Selespeed system
fluid level should be checked with the vehicle on a flat surface and
the engine switched off and cold."

"cold and dark" also means that you don't open the drivers door. Any
activity with the driver's door starts the pump, pressurizing the system.
If that happens, you need to wait again for the pressure to drop (which
might take days, once again).

If you don't follow this advice and fill your tank to MAX level when
in operating condition, then, you'll end up with an overflow situation
as depicted in images Image2051, Image2052 and Image2068. So, DON'T make
the mistake I made and DON'T fill up to MAX when system is pressurized.

More useful info (PDFs) :
0010T47 hydraulic system fluid for gearbox with hydraulic selection check level.pdf
0010T48 hydraulic system for gearbox with hydraulic selection bleed air.pdf
2127C12 hydraulic gear selection fluid reservoir
2127C18 pipe from hydraulic circuit fluid reservoir to hydraulic speed selection
2127C20 pipe frompump to hydraulic speed selection actuator unit
2127C22 pipe from hydraulic speed selection actuator unit to fluid reservoir
2127C30 hydraulic speed selection system pump
2127C40 hydraulic speed selection hydraulic actuator unit and clutch
2127C44 pressure accumulator on hydraulic actuator unit

FES/MES operations (Snap1, Snap2, Snap3)
It's a nice to have but in my opinion not absolutely necessary (for this specific operation).

1/3:To air bleed your system: 10 gear changes have the same effect.
2/3:Accumulator depressurization: If you don't want to wait for several
days for the pressure to drop. Mostly useful to check oil level in tank
and avoid overfill situations. Note that the pressure drops from 45 to 15 bar,
not 0 bar.
3/3:Electropump replacement. If you just change brushes, is it really necessary?

[copy/paste from FES/MES]

1/3: Accumulator depressurization
This function lowers the oil pressure in the system.
Before disassembling the hydraulic unit tubes MAKE SURE to
perform this operation and make sure it is successful consulting
the specific item in the parameter section.
The following is necessary for proper execution of this function:
- engine off (Stop&Start function not active)
- there are no errors
- disconnect the electric pump
- keep the brake pedal pressed for the whole operation
- clutch actuator ok
- clutch position sensor OK
WARNING: The electric pump connector must be disconnected.
If the key is turned to MAR the circuit will return to the
operating pressure.
Note: Pay careful attention since the brake pedal must be
pressed during the entire procedure.

2/3: clutch drain
The test should be performed if tubes or components of the
hydraulic circuit have been disassembled or reassembled.
It should eliminate any air in the circuit. Clutch bleeding
lasts about 1 minute.
The following is necessary for proper execution of this function:
- engine off (Stop&Start function not active)
- keep the brake pedal pressed for the whole operation
- clutch actuator OK
- clutch position sensor OK
Keep the brake pedal pressed for the whole operation.

3/3: Electropump replacement
This function is used to delete some of the parameters
inside the control unit that relate to the replaced component.
Execute in case of electric pump replacement.

[end of copy/paste from FES/MES]

Bonus: checklist!!!

1	fix & tighten motor/pump
2	pre-oil (lubricate) pump supply green o-ring (Image1971)
3	mount & tighten oil tank (you will need a mirror for the top right screw (fusebox side))
4	route the oil pipe to the left of the tank cap (see Image1993 or Image2010)
5	fix & tighten oil line fitting. Make sure oil line does not move along when tightening. Incorrect routing: Image2067
6	fill tank with oil up to MIN level
7	leave tank cap half open to allow air bleeding
8	check for oil leaks
9	plugin gearbox sensor near pump (Image1997)
10	plugin pump power supply connector (Image1998, Image1999, Image2000)
11	bleed & test: remote connection with battery and jumper cables
12	take note of odometer status km ______ and date ______
13	open driver's door and check pump operation
14	get ready to kill power in case of oil leaks
15	check for oil leaks
16	wait, think, pray, love, then reopen driver's door
17	WITHOUT starting the engine, power-up car with key to MAR
18	Any gearbox related alerts? Any other alerts?
19	bleed the circuit: step on the brakes and make at least 10 gear changes (N-1-N-R-N-1-…)
20	shut down car with key to OFF
21	with the system fully pressurized (~45 bar), you oil level should be no more than 25% above MIN level (75% below MAX level)
22	re-bleed the circuit: step on the brakes and make at least 10 gear changes (N-1-N-R-N-1-…)
23	check oil tank level, when fully pressurized: is it still ~25% above MIN level at the most? (Oil level explained above)
24	check for oil leaks
25	close + tighten tank cap
26	fix and tighten tank shield
27	fix and tighten turbo hose
28	fix and tighten battery tray
29	fix and tighten glow plug relay (Image2081, Image2082, Image2083, Image2084)
30	fix and tighten battery
31	fix and tighten battery terminals
32	FINAL visual check
33	adjust date + time
34	engine START
35	test drive (all 5 forward gears + reverse + neutral)

Best of luck with your project!!!

Pending questions:
1. Ideally, you need brushes with shunt wire on the side,
but how do we find such fancy brushes?
2. FIAT (or other) reference for the (green) oil supply o-ring (Image1971) ?
3. Any idea what the reference "5-3" stands for in the original
brushes? (IMG_7503)
4. DFN user's manual mentions fuses F23 (15A) and F16 (7.5A).
However, I have strong reasons to believe that the two 30A and 50A fuses
next to the 50A pump relay (Image2069) are also DFN-related since the 50A relay
is confirmed to drive the selespeed pump... TBC...

Questions? Comments? Concerns? LANCIA -at- danaus -dot- NET


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